Breuckelen is one of South Brooklyn's exciting new openings

Breuckelen is one of South Brooklyn’s exciting new openings

Last night’s dinner at Breuckelen was a total shocker. Hidden behind a lame name and semi-sterile room is one of Brooklyn’s exciting new openings. Butternut squash gnocchi was simply Batalian; light as pillows, sweet like the earth’s finest candy. Cut with fried pancetta. If I were crafting a top dishes of 2010 list, this would be a late breaker for one of the top two spots.

A split order of cappellini (lemon, butter, chilis, redic amount of cheese) was a stellar middle course. A duck breast with brussel sprouts and Chinese sausage was tender and flavorful and balanced on the plate. An arugula, mache, prosciutto salad did not hint of the BLIZZARD that just socked our fine city. Balsamic was drizzled atop, adding nice texture with the cubes of parmesan. The chef-owner Andrew Karasz is a fine-dining vet (Union Pacific, Eleven Madison Park, Django), which really makes sense. The meal was fine. Ignore the name. Just go. —Matt Rodbard

Breuckelen
268 Clinton St.between Verendah Place and Warren St.
718-855-8110